Cinq à Sept, or a Frenchman’s visit to his lover

Cinq à Sept é a reinterpretação britânica definitiva da fina arte francesa da sedução. Ruth Hogben, diretora e colaboradora do SHOWstudio, captura a coleção ‘Feral Lace’ do designer Giles Deacon para a casa de moda Emanuel Ungaro em câmera lenta, com style de Katie Grand e nas ruas de Londres. Irrésistible!

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A resolutely British re-interpretation of the fine French art of seduction – Ruth Hogben captures Giles Deacon’s ‘Feral Lace’ collection for the house of Emanuel Ungaro into spellbinding motion, styled by Katie Grand and unleashed on the streets of London town. Irrésistible!

SHOWstudio: Emanuel Ungaro A/W 2011 – Ruth Hogben, Katie Grand from SHOWstudio on Vimeo.

London’s free party scene

Out of Order é um livro de Molly Macindoe, que de 1997 a 2007 fotografou as free parties – também conhecidas como raves ilegais em armazéns – na Inglaterra e Europa. Joshua Surtees, autor do blog London Loves, participou de algumas dessas festas e compilou imagens do livro, em matéria do The Guardian.

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From 1997-2007 Molly Macindoe followed sound systems across Britain and Europe photographing the people and places of the free party scene. In his teens, Joshua Surtees, author of the London Loves blog attended some of the early raves and here compiles some of the images from Macindoe’s book Out of Order, in an article by The Guardian.

Derelict warehouse, Beachy Road, Hackney Wick, 1997

No verão de 1997, Molly Macindoe foi à sua primeira rave com amigos ligados ao sound system Crossbones. Viciou-se e passou os dez anos seguintes documentando líderes expoentes da cena free party e sua rede de amigos, em viagens explorando cidades em busca de prédios abandonados para realizar festas raves espontâneas que duravam dias. Uma rave neste prédio em Hackney durou 13 dias.
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In the summer of 1997, Molly Macindoe was taken to her first rave with a friend connected to the Crossbones sound system. Immediately hooked, she spent the next decade documenting the leading exponents of the free party scene and their network of friends as they travelled around scouring cities for derelict buildings to turn into spontaneous raves lasting for days. One rave in this Hackney building lasted for 13 weeks.

Disused meat factory, Tottenham Hale, New Year’s Eve 1997/98

A primeira festa ilegal que fui com Macindoe e outros amigos da escola foi no Ano-Novo de 1997 em um frigorífico gigante observando o reservatório em Tottenham Hale. Ainda havia ganchos pendurados no teto, esteiras rolantes e embalagens estavam intactas. Dez sound systems diferentes em salas do tamanho de quadras de futebol tocavam techno, jungle and gabber. A água caia por goteiras no teto. O piso estava encardido e molhado. Tempo depois, a polícia fechou o local.
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The first illegal rave I attended with Macindoe and other school friends was New Year’s Eve 1997 in a gigantic disused meat factory overlooking the reservoir in Tottenham Hale. Meat hooks were still hanging from ceilings, conveyor belts and netting were still intact. Ten different sound systems in cavernous rooms the size of football pitches blasted out techno, jungle and gabber. Rain dripped from the leaky ceiling. Some corners of the venue were pitch black and floors were grimy and wet. Eventually, many days into the new year, the police closed it down.

Cars My Arse, Kennington 1998

Cars My Arse foi o protesto de ambientalistas, na época do Reclaim The Streets, contra a massiva proliferação da utilização de carros no Reino Unido. A presença de várias figuras da contra-cultura tornou o local excelente para uma festa improvisada.
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Cars My Arse, a demonstration held by environmentalists around the time of Reclaim The Streets, was a protest against the massive proliferation of car travel in the UK. The presence of thousands of counter culture figures made it prime territory for an impromptu party.

Durante a infância de Macindoe em Londres, a área de Waterloo Bridge, agora ocupada pelo cinema Imax, era conhecida como ‘cidade de papelão’ – casa de muitos moradores de rua. Antes da revitalização da área organizadores deram uma festa embaixo da ponte. “Passantes a caminho do trabalho na segunda-feira se depararam com essa paisagem incrivelmente bizarra e surreal”, conta Macindoe.
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Throughout Macindoe’s childhood growing up in London the area beneath Waterloo Bridge, now occupied by the Imax cinema was referred to as ‘cardboard city’ – home to hundreds of rough sleepers. Before redevelopment began organisers threw a party in the underpass. “Commuters on their way to work on Monday morning were greeted with this incredibly bizarre, surreal sight” says Macindoe.

St Pancras Way, 1999

Ravers ocupam um bloco de escritórios vazio no coração de Kings Cross, norte de Londres.
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Ravers occupy an empty industrial office block in the heart of Kings Cross, north London.

‘The 50 Pence Building’, Waterloo, Halloween, 1999

Uma agressão visual aos padrões locais, o prédio pemaneceu vazio por anos e era frequentemente ocupado por ativistas e sem-teto. “Ali aconteciam festas raves organizadas por sound systems old-school como Spiral Tribe” lembra Macindoe. Antes de ser demolido, foi o local de uma expulsão tumultuada.
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The infamous eyesore that occupied the island housing the GLC County Hall sat empty for years, menacing the local skyline. It was frequently squatted by activists and homeless people. “It was raved seven years earlier by old-school sound systems like Spiral Tribe” Macindoe tells me. Before it was finally pulled down forever it became the scene of a tumultuous send off.

Shoreditch High Street, Millennium New Year’s Eve

A última festa a que fui foi na virada do milênio. Essa foi a única foto tirada por Macindoe; após uma noite solene. Um bloco de escritórios de vinte andares com sound systems em virtualmente cada andar. Havia centenas de pessoas fazendo fila para entrar. Como sempre, não era cobrada entrada mas uma colaboração em moedas que eram jogadas em uma lata. De dentro, os ravers assistiam a maior queima de fogos de artifício que Londres já havia visto.
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The last party I attended was on the eve of the new Millennium. This is the only photo Macindoe took; the morning after an unruly yet truly celebratory night. A 20-storey derelict office block in the heart of Shoreditch featured sound systems on virtually every floor. There was a crush to get in among the hundreds queuing outside. As ever there was no set entrance fee, just coins thrown into a bucket. Inside, the central stairwell was rammed all night with ravers constantly filing up and down the winding staircase. Through broken windows they watched the greatest fireworks display London has ever seen.

Cholsey Downs, The Ridgeway, Oxfordshire, 2000

O anoitecer se aproxima no interior da Inglaterra. O melhor e o pior dos tempos para um raver.
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Dawn approaches in the rolling English countryside. The best of times and worst of times for a raver.

Smells like TS’ Secret Store

Esta semana a Top Shop inaugurou a esperada Secret Store, um espaço provisório dentro das suas lojas em Londres e Nova York.

A entrada, flanqueada por uma banca de flores de cheiro divino de peônias, crisântemos pintados com spray e vasos pintados com glitter, foi curada pela dupla de designers da London Fashion Week Meadham Kirchhoff.

No interior, as araras estão cheias de criações da Topshop Boutique e peculiares colaborações como as coroas de jóias do chapeleiro Nasir Mazhar; uma bolsa de rede de Emma Cook; lingerie cor da pele transparente de Ann-Sofie Back; plataformas de veludo de Michael Van Der Ham; uma nova linha da designer de jóias americana Pamela Love; as letras banhadas a ouro que dizem “love” e podem ser usadas como broche ou penduadas na corrente de Maria Francesca Pepe; e jóias pertencentes à esgotada linha de roupas de Meadham Kirchoff. A Top Shop também está relançando peças de arquivo da Unique. Os preços vão de 50 libras para anéis de Meadham Kirchhoff até 350 libras para vestidos da boutique.

As lojas foram lançadas quinta-feira e estarão abertas por duas semanas.

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This week Top Shop unveiled the much waited Secret Store, a pop-up concept space in their stores in London and New York.

The entrance, flanked by a divine-smelling ‘Wilde at Heart’ flower stall teeming with peonies, spray-painted chrysanthemums and glitter-painted vases, was curated by London Fashion Week design duo Meadham Kirchhoff.

Inside, the rails are filled with Topshop Boutique designs and quirky designer collaborations such as ceramic-bewjelled crowns by milliner Nasir Mazhar; a net bag from Emma Cook; sheer nude underwear from Ann-Sofie Back; velvet wedge sandals by Michael Van Der Ham; studs of gold-plated letters spelling out ‘LOVE’ from Maria Francesca Pepe; a new range from American jewellery designer Pamela Love and jewellery by Meadham Kirchoff taken from their sell-out clothing range. Topshop will also be reissuing old pieces from the Unique archive. Prices start at £50 for some Meadham Kirchhoff rings and go up to £350 for boutique dresses.

The pop-up stores opened Thursday, 26th May for two weeks.

Tommy Nutter of Saville Row

O Fashion and Textile Museum de Londres exibe, desde 20 de maio, uma exposição sobre o trabalho de Tommy Nutter, o primeiro alfaiate a combinar com sucesso as tradições da Saville Row com a moda inovadora da Swinging London.

Em parceria com o modelista Edward Sexton e com o apoio de Cilla Black e do assistente executivo dos Beatles, Peter Brown, Nutter abriu seu primeiro estabelecimento na famosa rua em 1969, atraindo artistas e aristocratas em busca de golas exageradas, jaquetas de veludo com cinturas ajustadas, calças “Oxford” e a mistura de diferentes tipos de xadrês. Em tempos em que o serviço era realizado em portas fechadas, sua loja possuia vitrines e foi aberta para o público em geral.

A exposição Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row, que inclui quatro ternos de Mick Jagger e jaquetas de Elton John, recriou a loja de Nutter, além das vitrines arrojadas que exibiam ratos empalhados com patchouli usando colares de diamante. “Tommy trouxe glamour à Savile Row e a tornou acessível,” disse Elton John, que frequentemente visitava a loja para ter suas medidas tiradas enquanto bebia uma taça de sherry.

“Há alguns anos, a exposição poderia parecer excessivamente teatral,” afirmou Timothy Everest, renomado alfaiate que treinou com Nutter nos anos 80 e é curador da mostra. Mas o estilo criado na Saville Row está passando por um renascimento, com marcas masculinas como a E Tautz e A Sauvage produzindo alfaiataria tradiciopnal para um consumidor que acompanha as tendências. Designers como Timothy Everest e Ozwald Boateng ainda homenageiam o estilo de Nutter e o corte de Sexton. Tom Ford, que frequentemente produz casacos de veludo ao estilo Nutty, cita o designer como inspiração.

A Visíveis Virtudes hoje brinda com sherry!

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From 20 May the Fashion and Textile Museum displays the work of Tommy Nutter, the first tailor to successfully combine Savile Row traditions with the cutting edge fashion of Swinging London.

His first shop opened in 1969, joining forces with the master cutter Edward Sexton, and backed by Cilla Black and the Beatles executive Peter Brown and attracted rock stars and aristocrats who wanted the mix of innovative styling and traditional made-to-measure tailoring. Huge lapels, velvet jackets with nipped-in waists, Oxford bags and mixed-up tweeds fast became his design signatures. At a time when bespoke tailoring was usually behind closed doors, his Savile Row premises had window and was open up to passers-by.

The exhibition Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row includes four of Mick Jagger’s suits and Elton John’s dinner jackets and recreated Nutter’s shop, along with its innovative window displays featuring patchouli-soaked stuffed rats wearing diamond chokers. “Tommy completely glamorised Savile Row and made it accessible,” said Elton John, who often visited the shop to be measured up while drinking a glass of sherry.

“A few years ago the show might have looked overly theatrical,” said Timothy Everest, the renowned tailor who trained under Nutter in the late 80s and is joint curator for the show. But Savile Row is enjoying a style renaissance, with menswear labels E Tautz and A Sauvage celebrating traditional tailoring for today’s more trend-aware male consumer. Designers such as Timothy Everest and Ozwald Boateng still paying tribute to Nutter style and Sexton’s cutting.Tom Ford, who frequently produces Nutty-style velvet jackets, cite the designer as an inspiration.

Today Visiveis Virtudes celebrates with sherry!

Tommy Nutter – Rebel on the Row will run until 22nd October 2011 at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London

Tommy Nutter with dogs in NYC

Design for Elton John by Nutter

Ringo Star in Nutter

Mick in Nutter and Bianca Jagger, pictured at a fashion gala at the Savoy, 1973

Proust Questionário da VV por Rachelle de São Paulo, Brasil

O Questionário Proust é um questionário sobre personalidade. No final do século 19, quando ainda adolescente, Marcel Proust respondeu um questionário em língua inglesa em um álbum de confissões que pertencia à sua amiga Antoinette, filha do futuro presidente francês Félix Faure, chamado “An Album to Record Thoughts, Feelings, etc.” Naquela época, era popular entre famílias inglesas responder a essa lista de questões que revelava os gostos e aspirações de quem as respondia. Proust respondeu o questionário várias vezes ao longo de sua vida, sempre com entusiasmo.

Visiveis Virtudes atualizou o Questionário Proust e não se cansou de responder às perguntas. Agora é a sua vez. E se você quiser compartilhar as respostas e ver o que os outros responderam, visite visiveisvirtudes.wordpress.com

Como você se sente? Em constante movimento para realizar meus novos desejos.
O que faz você feliz? Ter amigos por perto para conversar, rir, viver.
O que deixa você triste? Solidão
Qual a virtude mais apreciada? Gentileza, necessária para uma boa convivência e para manter a sanidade mental.
O que você conquistou que lhe deixa mais orgulhoso? A possibilidade de conhecer e viver os meus desejos
O que você mais gosta na sociedade atual? A possibilidade de conexão com pessoas que estão longe fisicamente
O que você menos gosta na sociedade atual? O excesso de informação e de conexão e como isso nos distancia das pessoas com quem vivemos.
Quem mais influenciou sua vida? minha família e amigos
Que músicas inspiram você? Depende do momento, dylan, glen hasard e marketa irglova, capital inicial, legião urbana, chet baker, thelonius monk…
Que livro primeiro mudou você? Reinações de narizinho, do monteiro lobato
Quem é seu ícone de estilo? Laura Wachelesky
Como você descreveria seu estilo pessoal? Basico
Qual sua peça básica no guarda-roupas? jeans
Quais seus lugares preferidos? Livraria cultura, cine bombril, reserva cultural, feirinha do center 3 (domingo), espaço unibanco, ou de forma ampla onde tem livros e cinema.
Em que lugar você gostaria de morar? Verona
Que tempo na história você gostaria de visitar? A época retratada por jane austen (séc. XIX)
Qual a invenção humana mais impressionante? Avião
O que você possui que mais gosta? Um armário que comprei em floripa que guarda livros mas originalmente era um armário para guardar queijos.
Que talento você gostaria de ter? desenhar
Qual seu melhor conselho? Rir ainda é o melhor negocio
O que você tatuaria? Uma flor, ainda neste ano, que foi desenhada pelo pablo, meu querido amigo.

A Dance to the Music of Time

Fiorucci Made Me Hardcore (Mark Leckey) from Anon. on Vimeo.

A short film on British clubbing between 70s – 90s

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Primal Scream – Peel Session, 1985

The VV Proust Questionnaire – by Cynthia from Rennes, France

The Proust Questionnaire is a questionnaire about one’s personality. At the end of the nineteenth century, when Proust was still in his teens, he answered a questionnaire in an English-language confession album belonging to his friend Antoinette, daughter of future French President Félix Faure, entitled “An Album to Record Thoughts, Feelings, etc.” At that time, it was popular among English families to answer such a list of questions that revealed the tastes and aspirations of the taker. Proust answered the questionnaire several times in his life, always with enthusiasm.

Visiveis Virtudes updated the Proust Questionnaire and did not get bored by answering them. It is your turn. And if you feel like sharing it and having a look at other people’s answers, visit us at visiveisvirtudes.wordpress.com

How do you feel?
Looking forward to having my own flat with my man!

What makes you happy?
Being able to share important moments with friends

What makes you sad?
Being far from my guy

What is your most appreciated virtue?
Listening

What have you achieved that you are most proud of?
Working on me…but never achieved…

What do you like the most in modern society?
The idea we develop to feel more free of our life

What do you dislike the most in modern society?
Violence and aggressivity between people

Who influenced your life the most?
My friends

Who influenced your work the most?
Association of cooperation between pupils and teachers

What songs inspire you?
Nearly all the Mylène Farmer’s ones

What book first changed in you?
“Imparfait, libres et heureux” (Not perfect, free and happy) changed my way of seeing me

Who is your style icon? ]
Julia Roberts

How would you describe your personal style?
Just feeling good in my clothes

What is your wardrobe staple?
A vest

Where are your favorite hangouts?
A place to dance, in a bar, park, swimming pool

What place would you like to live?
Papeete

What time in history would you like to visit?
I’m where I must be in the right place

What is the most impressive human invention?
Rocket

What is your most treasured possession?
My ring, from my grandfather

What talent you would like to be gifted with?
Cure people (mind and body)

What is your best advice?
Be yourself, don’t judge you badly too quickly

What would you tatoo?
No tatoo, rather a piercing on the tongue…

PJ Harvey’s extraneous works, drawings and writings

PJ Harvey, a cantora do aclamado ‘Let England Shake’, anunciou sua intenção de ‘publicar regularmente’ trabalhos de arte e escritos em que vem trabalhando nos últimos vinte anos.

A inspiração veio depois de uma experiência positiva como guest designer para a revista Zoetrope: All-Story, de Francis Ford Coppola em 2010. “Comecei como uma artista visual, não uma cantora”, afirmou Harvey. “Eu iria estudar escultura… mas aí o caminho em direção à música se abriu para mim. Tive a oportunidade de gravar um disco e acabei não me formando.”

Entretanto, as artes visuais continuaram a fazer parte da vida dela. “Eu levo meu trabalho comigo”. Harvey disse. “Como eu escrevo, desenho e pinto todos os dias, isso é parte da minha vida. Na verdade, escrever músicas para mim é um processo muito visual também.”

Visíveis Virtudes mal pode esperar para o que ela chama de “estranhos trabalhos, desenhos e escritos que não são música, apenas outras coisas que eu faço” serem publicados.

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PJ Harvey, the singer-songwriter of the acclaimed ‘Let England Shake’, has announced her intention to ‘regularly release’ artwork and writings she has been working on for twenty years.

The inpiration came after a positive experience as a guest designer for Francis Ford Coppola’s magazine Zoetrope: All-Story, in 2010. CMy beginnings were as a visual artist, not a musician,” Harvey said. “I was going to do a degree in sculpture … but then the path towards music opened up for me. I had an opportunity to make a record and it took me away from ever doing that.”

Visual art has remained part of her life, though. “I take my work with me”, Harvey said. “As I write every day, I draw and paint every day and it’s just part of my life. In fact, songwriting is, for me, a very visual process as well.”

Visíveis Virtudes can hardly wait for what she calls “extraneous works, drawings and writings that aren’t songs, but just other things that I do” to be released.

The VV Proust Questionnaire by Savino from Cardiff, Wales

The Proust Questionnaire is a questionnaire about one’s personality. At the end of the nineteenth century, when Proust was still in his teens, he answered a questionnaire in an English-language confession album belonging to his friend Antoinette, daughter of future French President Félix Faure, entitled “An Album to Record Thoughts, Feelings, etc.” At that time, it was popular among English families to answer such a list of questions that revealed the tastes and aspirations of the taker. Proust answered the questionnaire several times in his life, always with enthusiasm.

Visiveis Virtudes updated the Proust Questionnaire and did not get bored by answering them. It is your turn. And if you feel like sharing it and having a look at other people’s answers, visit us at visiveisvirtudes.wordpress.com

The rules: answer each one of the questions in a direct and sincere way. Tag fifteen friends, including myself, because I would like to know the answers given by my friends (In order to do that, go to Notes in your profile page, paste the rules, the introduction and the questions and answes in a new note, choose fifteen friends and tag them).

How do you feel?
a warrior

What makes you happy?
Spending time with my family and going surfing

What makes you sad?
not having time to spend with my family

What is your most appreciated virtue?
courage

What have you achieved that you are most proud of?
giving up smoking

What do you like the most in modern society?
power of communication

What do you dislike the most in modern society?
selfishness

Who influenced your life the most?
family

Who influenced your work the most?
my dada

What songs inspire you?
zomby cramberry,

What book first changed in you?
The name of the rose umberto eco

Who is your style icon?
roman gladiator

How would you describe your personal style?
sporty

What is your wardrobe staple?
A o’neils wetsuit

Where are your favorite hangouts?
rest bay portcawl

What place would you like to live?
any with sunshine and waves to surf where i don’t need to work

What time in history would you like to visit?
roman time

What is the most impressive human invention?
electricity

What is your most treasured possession?
my surfboard

What talent you would like to be gifted with?
alchemy

What is your best advice?
love others like yourself

What would you tatoo?
a sun

Yamamoto’s Dream

Como parte de uma grandiosa comemoração dos 10 anos de colaboração entre Yohji Yamamoto e Adidas, será lançado um documentário de 30 minutos sobre o homem por trás de uma das mais celebradas linhas de sportswear – a Y-3.

Dirigido por Theo Stanley, o curta entitulado This Is My Dream se concentra nos meses anteriores ao show de Primavera Verão 2010 de Yamamoto em Nova York e inclui algumas gravações de coleções antigas, como sua seminal coleção feminina inaugural de 1981, ano em que a moda japonesa conquistou o mundo com peças amplas em preto-e-branco.

Se inicialmente as criações de Yamamoto possuiam formas masculinas inspiradas pelas roupas de trabalho Japonesas e por aquelas usadas no campo, a maioria pretas e simples, escondendo a complexidade do trabalho, com o tempo evoluiram para peças mais estruturadas e justas ao corpo. Para a coleção de Primavera Verão 2010, a Y-3 se inspirou no amor do designer pelo rock & roll.

This Is My Dream estará disponível para compra em DVD nas lojas da Y-3 globalmente e também pelo website Y-3.com a partir do outono.

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As part of a large-scale celebration of the 10th anniversary collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, comes a 30 minute film on the man behind one of sportswear’s most celebrated lines.

Directed by Theo Stanley, the short documentary titled This Is My Dream centres in the months leading up to the showing of his Spring/Summer ’10 show in New York and includes some drool-worthy footage from collections past, as his seminal inaugural 1981 women’s collection, the year that Japanese fashion really took the world by storm with the designers’ black and white outfits in loose-fitting styles.

If initially Yamamoto’s creations had a masculine shape inspired by Japanese workwear and country clothing, most came in black and were simple, hiding the complexity of the work, with time evolving to more structured clothes and fitted to the body. For Spring/Summer 2011, Y-3 is inspired by the designer’s love for rock & roll.

This Is My Dream will become available for purchase on DVD at all Y-3 stores globally as well as on Y-3.com in the fall.

Yamamoto debuted in Paris in 1981

A Yohji Yamamoto ad from F/W1988, shot by Nick Knight

Yamamoto’s Y-3 S/S2010