Tommy Nutter of Saville Row

May 26, 2011

O Fashion and Textile Museum de Londres exibe, desde 20 de maio, uma exposição sobre o trabalho de Tommy Nutter, o primeiro alfaiate a combinar com sucesso as tradições da Saville Row com a moda inovadora da Swinging London.

Em parceria com o modelista Edward Sexton e com o apoio de Cilla Black e do assistente executivo dos Beatles, Peter Brown, Nutter abriu seu primeiro estabelecimento na famosa rua em 1969, atraindo artistas e aristocratas em busca de golas exageradas, jaquetas de veludo com cinturas ajustadas, calças “Oxford” e a mistura de diferentes tipos de xadrês. Em tempos em que o serviço era realizado em portas fechadas, sua loja possuia vitrines e foi aberta para o público em geral.

A exposição Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row, que inclui quatro ternos de Mick Jagger e jaquetas de Elton John, recriou a loja de Nutter, além das vitrines arrojadas que exibiam ratos empalhados com patchouli usando colares de diamante. “Tommy trouxe glamour à Savile Row e a tornou acessível,” disse Elton John, que frequentemente visitava a loja para ter suas medidas tiradas enquanto bebia uma taça de sherry.

“Há alguns anos, a exposição poderia parecer excessivamente teatral,” afirmou Timothy Everest, renomado alfaiate que treinou com Nutter nos anos 80 e é curador da mostra. Mas o estilo criado na Saville Row está passando por um renascimento, com marcas masculinas como a E Tautz e A Sauvage produzindo alfaiataria tradiciopnal para um consumidor que acompanha as tendências. Designers como Timothy Everest e Ozwald Boateng ainda homenageiam o estilo de Nutter e o corte de Sexton. Tom Ford, que frequentemente produz casacos de veludo ao estilo Nutty, cita o designer como inspiração.

A Visíveis Virtudes hoje brinda com sherry!

———————–

From 20 May the Fashion and Textile Museum displays the work of Tommy Nutter, the first tailor to successfully combine Savile Row traditions with the cutting edge fashion of Swinging London.

His first shop opened in 1969, joining forces with the master cutter Edward Sexton, and backed by Cilla Black and the Beatles executive Peter Brown and attracted rock stars and aristocrats who wanted the mix of innovative styling and traditional made-to-measure tailoring. Huge lapels, velvet jackets with nipped-in waists, Oxford bags and mixed-up tweeds fast became his design signatures. At a time when bespoke tailoring was usually behind closed doors, his Savile Row premises had window and was open up to passers-by.

The exhibition Tommy Nutter: Rebel on the Row includes four of Mick Jagger’s suits and Elton John’s dinner jackets and recreated Nutter’s shop, along with its innovative window displays featuring patchouli-soaked stuffed rats wearing diamond chokers. “Tommy completely glamorised Savile Row and made it accessible,” said Elton John, who often visited the shop to be measured up while drinking a glass of sherry.

“A few years ago the show might have looked overly theatrical,” said Timothy Everest, the renowned tailor who trained under Nutter in the late 80s and is joint curator for the show. But Savile Row is enjoying a style renaissance, with menswear labels E Tautz and A Sauvage celebrating traditional tailoring for today’s more trend-aware male consumer. Designers such as Timothy Everest and Ozwald Boateng still paying tribute to Nutter style and Sexton’s cutting.Tom Ford, who frequently produces Nutty-style velvet jackets, cite the designer as an inspiration.

Today Visiveis Virtudes celebrates with sherry!

Tommy Nutter – Rebel on the Row will run until 22nd October 2011 at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London


Tommy Nutter with dogs in NYC


Design for Elton John by Nutter


Ringo Star in Nutter

Mick in Nutter and Bianca Jagger, pictured at a fashion gala at the Savoy, 1973

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