Italian Style on the Silver Screen
March 12, 2011
O fotógrafo Rankin e a escritora de moda e cinema Anna Battista se uniram a Peroni Nastro Azzurro para criar uma exposição que olha para figurinos icônicos surgidos da fantasia de lendários diretores em colaboração com seus excelentes diretores de arte, designers de figurino e artesãos.
Italian Style on the Silver Screen analisa 60 anos de cinema, tendências e moda, homenageando as fashion maisons, casas de alfaiataria, figurinistas e fashion designers que contribuiram para criar o encantamento do cinema italiano. Para acompanhar as peças da mostra, Rankin exibe uma série de fotografias originais e inéditas.
A coleção foi selecionada de diferentes arquivos históricos, incluindo the British Film Institute, the Sorelle Fontana and Fernanda Gattinoni. Imagens e clipes tirados de mais de 50 filmes fazem parte da mostra, além de acessórios como os chapéus Borsalino – da histórica empresa fundada por Giuseppe Borsalino em 1857 – até hoje associados a Humphrey Bogart, Al Capone, Ernest Hemingway e Winston Chirchill – os lendários “paparazzo shoes” criados por Alberto Dal Co’ em 1953, e os sapatos da linha Creations da Ferragamo, reproduzindo aqueles criados para Ava Gardner e Marilyn Monroe.
The Peroni Collection – Italian Style on the Silver Screen está na Proud Gallery Chelsea, em Londres, até 20 de março.
Photographer Rankin and Italian fashion and film writer Anna Battista have joined with Peroni Nastro Azzurro to create an exhibition which looks at iconic costumes born out of the fantasy of legendary directors in collaboration with their magnificent art directors, excellent costume designers and skilled artisans.
Italian Style on the Silver Screen analyses 60 years of films, trends and fashion, paying a tribute to those fashion maisons, tailoring houses, costume and fashion designers who contributed to create the magic of Italian cinema. Furthermore, to accompany the pieces on show, Rankin will be exhibiting a series of original and previously unseen images.
The collection has been sourced from different historical archives including the Florence-based Ferragamo Museum, the British Film Institute and the famous Tirelli Tailoring House. Film clips, images and costumes taken from over 50 film titles will be on display, and also exclusive accessories, such as the legendary “paparazzo shoes” designed by shoemaker Alberto Dal Co’ in 1953, a selection of hats by Borsalino, the historical hat manufacturer founded by Giuseppe Borsalino in 1857 in Alessandria, and shoes from the Ferragamo’s Creations line, reproducing the original footwear Salvatore Ferragamo created for Ava Gardner and Marilyn Monroe.
The Peroni Collection – Italian Style on the Silver Screen runs until March 20th, at the Proud Gallery Chelsea, London.
Silvana Mangano in ”Una sera come le altre” (“A night like any other”) by Vittorio De Sica; Costume Design by Piero Tosi. Segment from Le streghe (The Witches, 1967) by Mauro Bolognini, Vittorio De Sica, Pier Paolo Pasolini, Franco Rossi and Luchino Visconti.
Protagonist Giovanna finds refuge in her dreams in which she is not an obedient wife, but a glamorous diva in designer clothes. As a revengeful vixen clad in a black PVC dress matched with a spiky headdress she becomes the sensual mistress. The episode culminates with Giovanna clad in a striking black satin dress with a colourfull billowing cape formed by strips of fabrics knotted on her shoulders, it is a joyful kaleidoscope of vibrant shades that contrasts with her grey and boring everyday life.
This is an iconic image from Leone’s Once Upon a Time in the West. Claudia Cardinale sports a classic cowboy look, with dirty and dusty trousers matched with leather waistcoats. Cardinale’s “western look” reappeared in Ralph Lauren’s Spring Summer 2011 collection including fringed leather trousers, bull’s head belt buckles and pale blue dresses with delicate lace edgings.
The legendary shots of Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni in the Trevi Fountain forever changed the history of Italian cinema. The black satin dress worn by Ekberg was actually inspired by Jean Loui’s black satin strapless gown for Rita Hayworth in Gilda. The film caused a huge debate when it was first released and the case even reached Parliament where conservatives MPs asked to withdraw it from circulation as it offended the virtues and integrity of the respectable citizens of Rome.
8 ½ (1963) by Federico Fellini; Costume Design by Piero Gherardi, BFI.
The most prominent scene in this film sees the characters dressed in white or donning extravagant designs, gathering together in the circus ring while clowns play Nino Rota’s evocative music. Guido’s psychoanalytic journey through cinematic creation and style is over and he can finally start shooting the film he had dreamt about. The film is best described by Fellini who claimed 8 ½ was “a beautiful chaos” in which he felt alive.
Antonioni was interested in iconic and often extreme costumes which would represent social evolutions. The costumes in Blow Up, from the Mary Quant style mini-dress to the optical designs calling on Andrè Courrèges and Rudi Gernreich’s arquitecturally futuristic clean-cut lines, perfectly conjure up the late 1960’s fashion scene; . Other films by Antonioni show more interest in the costume as indicator of the psychological state of the character, as the ‘tetralogy of alienation’ – L’Avventura, La Notte, L’Eclisse and Deserto Rosso).
Giulietta degli spiriti (Juliet of the Spirits, 1965) by Federico Fellini; Costume Design by Piero Gherardi, BFI.
The trippy acid colours, theatrical sets and psychedelic interiors of the film incarnated the phenomenal, surprising wonderful and fantastic. To pay homage to Fellini’s oneiric visions, Fendi launched a series of t-shirts in collaboration with the Federico Fellini Foundation for the Spring/Summer 2011 season. The t-shirts, released in limited edition, featured colorful prints of the director’s surreal sketches and drawings.