Paris Fashion Week AW11 – March 02-09
March 11, 2011
Visíveis Virtudes favourite designers and looks from the Paris A/W ’11 catwalk shows.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s ‘collage’ of graphic prints, brocades and jacquards from Lyon, snake-skin, fur and lame bring together Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes and Ziggy Stardust with a remixed version of David Bowie’s Heroes as the soundtrack.
Marco Zanini’s cheetah print, silk satin and jacquard.
Vivienne Westwood Gold
Westwood’s travellers wear a punk-warrior makeup and a multi-ethnic array of fabrics and colours from the quintessentially English tweed to burgundy silk and gold brocade.
Galliano’s nineteenth-century dandies.
Posen’s gunmetal grey matte sequins and leather, turquoise, green and royal blue.
Christophe Decarnin – who failed to show up at the show – and his new stylist Melanie Ward – who replaced the now Paris Vogue editor-in-chief Emmanuele Alt – traded the punk influences of last season for glam rock, swapping Sid’s version of “My Way” for David Bowie’s “Lady Grinning Soul” off Aladdin Sane.
Alber Elbaz’s sonic darkness, metallic jewelry, severe but sensual drapes, black lace, knit sheaths, mousseline and roses.
Haider Ackermann’s silence turned into Leonard Cohen’s ‘A Thousand Kisses Deep’ with a show of drapes on leathers, suedes, and silks.
Galliano’s eternal journey to the 20th century Paris and its decadent atmosphere.
Antonio Marras’ trip to Mexico and references to Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keefe and Tina Modotti.
Riccardo Tisci’s twin inspirations of Bettie Page – the original pinup queen herself was on the catwalk – and Amanda Lear on the cover of Roxy Music’s For Your Pleasure?
Karl Lagerfeld’s “The world is a dark place”, with Michel Gaubert’s thundering orchestral revision of the Cure’s seminal goth classic “A Forest”.
Sarah Burton’s venue, La Conciergerie, was Marie Antoinette’s prison and the site of an Alexander McQueen show with live wolves on the catwalk, but Burton’s was a white-light burning bright of “heritage silhouettes.”
Marc Jacobs’s rubber dominatrix boots, see-through flasher macs and lace-ups.
Miuccia Prada’s study of the forties on a modern vintage collection.