Paris Fashion Week AW11 – March 02-09

March 11, 2011

Visíveis Virtudes favourite designers and looks from the Paris A/W ’11 catwalk shows.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten’s ‘collage’ of graphic prints, brocades and jacquards from Lyon, snake-skin, fur and lame bring together Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes and Ziggy Stardust  with a remixed version of David Bowie’s Heroes as the soundtrack.

Rochas

Marco Zanini’s cheetah print, silk satin and jacquard.

Vivienne Westwood Gold

Westwood’s  travellers wear a punk-warrior makeup and a multi-ethnic array of fabrics and colours from the quintessentially English tweed to burgundy silk and gold brocade.

Christian Dior

Galliano’s nineteenth-century dandies.

Zac Posen

Posen’s gunmetal grey matte sequins and leather, turquoise, green and royal blue.

Balmain

Christophe Decarnin – who failed to show up at the show – and his new stylist Melanie Ward – who replaced the now Paris Vogue editor-in-chief Emmanuele Alt – traded the punk influences of last season for glam rock, swapping Sid’s version of “My Way” for David Bowie’s “Lady Grinning Soul” off Aladdin Sane.

Lanvin

Alber Elbaz’s sonic darkness, metallic jewelry, severe but sensual drapes, black lace, knit sheaths, mousseline and roses.

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann’s silence turned into Leonard Cohen’s  ‘A Thousand Kisses Deep’ with a show of drapes on leathers, suedes, and silks.

John Galliano

Galliano’s eternal journey to the 20th century Paris and its decadent atmosphere.

Kenzo

Antonio Marras’ trip to Mexico and references to Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keefe and Tina Modotti.

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci’s twin inspirations of Bettie Page – the original pinup queen herself was on the catwalk –  and Amanda Lear on the cover of Roxy Music’s For Your Pleasure?

Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld’s “The world is a dark place”, with Michel Gaubert’s thundering orchestral revision of the Cure’s seminal goth classic “A Forest”.

Alexandre McQueen

Sarah Burton’s venue, La Conciergerie, was Marie Antoinette’s prison and the site of an Alexander McQueen show with live wolves on the catwalk, but Burton’s was a white-light burning bright of “heritage silhouettes.”

Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs’s rubber dominatrix boots, see-through flasher macs and lace-ups.

Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada’s study of the forties on a modern vintage collection.

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